The residents of the Upper Ohio Valley adore our steak salads, and we salivate over our fish sandwiches, two aspects of moving to the Wheeling area that Chef Adam Luiso had to become accustomed to.
But cold cheese? On pizza? That, for the Pittsburgh native who has been an executive chef for more than 15 years, took some getting used to.
“One thing that is very popular here I believe started in Pittsburgh, and that includes the steak salad. In a lot of places, it’s even referred to as a ‘Pittsburgh-area salad.’ So, I’ve been familiar with some of the foods that people enjoy in this area,” Luiso said. “One thing that I have found that is very unique to this area involves pizza, and that means there’s a lot of cold cheese that is placed on the pizza. I was introduced to it when I first moved to Weirton.
“I’ll admit it. It was a little bit of culture shock for me because in the Pittsburgh area we have a lot of New York-style pizza where the cheese is most definitely melted when served,” he said. “But the cold-cheese pizza is definitely a signature for this Upper Ohio Valley.”
When it comes to fish sandwiches in the Pittsburgh area, western Pennsylvanians are split between Benkovitz and Wholey’s, but here in the Upper Ohio Valley, there can only be one quick fix for the craving.
“Sure, the fish sandwich is very popular in the Pittsburgh area, but here it’s all about the Coleman’s Fish sandwich; that’s for sure,” Luiso said. “I know when I go to Coleman’s for a product I usually see a line out of the door so that tells me they run a very good business. Their products are always top-notch.
“I understand they are sources their fish and seafood at least twice a week, and that’s really what you have to do if you want it to be as fresh as possible. There’s such a difference when the fish is fresh,” he explained. “There are days when I see those lines, I look at the staff there, and those folks are a machine; it really is impressive.”
Palates with a Purpose
Several local restaurants have opened in the tri-state region during the past decades, and most were able to survive the carry-out-only mandates issued by governors in West Virginia, Ohio, and Pennsylvania.
Each of the eateries serves mostly Americana dishes, but others focus on particular ethnic genres like Italian, Asian, and Mexican. So, when it comes to the collective taste buds in the Wheeling area, Chef Luiso has been pleasantly impressed with local palates.
“It really is a culinary place, and that has allowed me to prepare some different kinds of cuisine, including some higher-end stuff,” Luiso explained. “And my dishes have been received very well from the public. I’ve been able to have a lot of fun with it for more than a year now.
“We have made Wheeling our home over the past year, too, and now the kids are in school here,” he said. “And our family was welcomed with open arms, and that felt really great. It has been an experience I would not trade; I can tell you that.”
But when it comes down to the bottom line, the brass tacks, and the reality of it all, there exists only one clear answer when it comes to what kind of food is demanded most frequently.
“This is a meat and potatoes valley,” Luiso said with a smile. “I found that out very quickly, and I’ve experienced great success every time I have prepared something beef. When I do, it’s always paired with some sort of potato because that’s what we want in this area.
“I’m thankful I have a lot of steakhouse experience because I’ve needed it since coming to Roxby,” he said. “It’s easy for me to execute because it’s all about how you treat it.”
Not Just Burgers
There is a trick to it, though, and Chef Luiso has learned that, as well. While the number one protein most definitely is meat, he has witnessed local residents very much enjoy a plethora of different side dishes, as well.
Potatoes? Yes, please. Baked potatoes, mashed potatoes, potato wedges, Au Gratin potatoes, scalloped potatoes, hashbrown potatoes, and even potato salad. If Luiso wishes to dress it up a bit, perhaps he’ll serve Picadillo, a dish with ground beef that is studded with potatoes and seasoned with cumin, a smidgen of cinnamon, and garlic.
But the Roxby executive chef also has discovered a few other starches that have been welcomed.
“Here in the Upper Ohio Valley, after executing some of the events we have, I can tell you that the people here definitely love their beef,” Luiso reported. “Everything beef. Beef tenderloin, filet the big tomahawk steaks … for a lot of people, it’s all about the beef. But the people who have attended those events have really enjoyed my risotto and that’s been great because it’s a process you really have to take care of, and they enjoy the pairings I’ve prepared.
“But recently I’ve had a lot of success because people have wanted some beautiful fish,” he said. “I prepared some Halibut, and it was really well received, and I got some great feedback on that dish. And there’s also a Mac and Cheese dish that I do that has six different cheeses in it. The folks in this area have really enjoyed that dish, as well, but when it comes down to it, meat and potatoes.”
