Since the late 1800s and the days of the ethnic neighborhoods of Wheeling, Ukrainian immigrants have called South Wheeling their home. A thriving community rooted in their heritage, they needed a place to worship and practice their religion. Our Lady of Perpetual Help Ukrainian Catholic Church at 4136 Jacob Street in Wheeling is that place. Although the church has undergone some location and name changes over the years, the Ukrainian heritage and traditions remain an important part of the church’s culture.
Recently, I had the privilege to work alongside a dedicated crew of volunteers at the church. It was just one of the many days these parishioners have worked tirelessly to prepare handmade pierogi, cabbage and noodles, macaroni and cheese, cole slaw, Spanish rice, soup, and other items for their church’s popular Lenten fish fries.
Pierogi Day
On the day I volunteered, they were busy creating their famous pierogi. What an operation! This well-oiled machine cranks out between 200 and 300 DOZEN fresh, savory pierogi each week. The magic happens as the volunteers work in various capacities throughout the room. One man feeds mounds of dough through the pasta press onto a lightly floured surface and then cuts the flattened dough with a cutter wheel that produces multiple perfectly-shaped discs. From there, the discs are put on plates and distributed to the many pierogi pinchers who methodically stretch the dough into the perfect shape to accept little mounds of sauerkraut or mashed potatoes with cheese. The edges are pinched shut, and the pierogi is placed on a tray that another volunteer whisks to the cook who boils them to perfection. Next, the pierogi cool and then are transferred onto small trays of 12 pierogi, placed in plastic bags, and closed with a twist tie. From there, they go into the refrigerator.
This human pierogi-making machine hums with the pleasant banter of the volunteers. Topics range from pets and weather to heavier sentiments concerning the human toll of the war in Ukraine. A once bustling parish, their numbers have declined over the years and now their active parishioners number between 25 and 30. On the day I volunteered, I counted 16 workers. That’s over half of the congregation! To be clear, a few of the volunteers are not members of the parish, and not all of the parishioners are Ukrainian, but all have been welcomed into this close-knit group. The volunteers range in age from 69 to 101 years old. The church has been holding Lenten fish fries every year since the 1960s. Olga, the eldest member of the church family, has been part of the fish fries from the beginning. She is spry and friendly, and she works just as hard as any of the volunteers with a twinkle in her eye and a smile on her face.
During Lent, these volunteers work 6 days a week. Sunday is cabbage roll day. On Monday, potato balls for pierogi; Tuesday, pierogi; Wednesday, macaroni and cheese as well as cabbage and noodles; Thursday: soup, coleslaw, and Spanish rice. Thursday is also for filling ketchup bottles, tartar sauce containers, and stocking the refrigerator with soft drinks and water. Friday is fish fry day, and the volunteers begin arriving early in the morning for their opening at 11:00. So popular is this fish fry, customers start lining up before the doors open. They’ve learned to get there early to make sure to get all of the tasty food choices before they’re gone. Even with the enormous quantities of food prepared, some items do sell out. The fish fry ends at 6:00, but a thorough cleaning of the facility takes place before the volunteers go home for their much-needed rest.
Beyond Lent
The tradition of making and selling pierogi to the public dates back to 1911. That’s 115 years of pierogi making! While the Lenten season is the busiest for this group, Christmas is another season when the demand for pierogi and cabbage rolls is high for family celebrations. Beyond the major Christian holiday seasons, the volunteers hold once-weekly sales to the general public.
Why Do They Do It?
These days are rife with dwindling congregations and church closures. This dedicated band of volunteers is fighting for their church. Through their concerted efforts, they are making sure their parish is self-supporting. This is a labor of love for their faith, their culture, their traditions, and their church family. These people represent the best of America: They are selfless, hardworking, and dedicated to supporting a cause in which they passionately believe. They are working to keep their church alive, and maybe even more than that, they are working to sustain the Ukrainian heritage.
An Opportunity to Support the Mission
Lenten fish fries are held every Friday during Lent (with the exception of Good Friday). Doors open at 11:00 and close at 6:00. Menu items are available for dine-in or take-out. Throughout the year (with the exception of the month following Easter), customers can purchase pierogi and cabbage rolls every Thursday from 9:00 until 4:00 at the church (4136 Jacob Street, Wheeling). Orders can be placed in advance by calling 304-232-1777.
Volunteers, especially during Lent, are always welcome. From my personal experience, I can tell you I was made to feel welcome from the moment I walked into the room. No one laughed at my first attempts to create the “perfect” pierogi dough disc. Soon, with a little coaching, I was shaping discs, placing the scoops of potato, and pinching the edges shut while participating in the pleasant camaraderie of the group. Later that night, I texted my friend Gemma (who was the one who invited me to volunteer) to ask her if my pierogi stayed intact during the boiling process. She said there were no popped-open rejects to feed to the workers, so mine all passed the test. My purpose in volunteering was to learn a new skill, but I learned so much more than that. The idea of writing this article came to me as I witnessed the incredible, indefatigable devotion of these people. They don’t do it to have a light shone on them. They do it to shine the light.
Mark Your Calendar
In 2027, Lent begins on February 10. If you want to learn a new skill, make some new friends, and help a worthy cause, put a reminder on your phone for early February next year to contact the church. You’ll be glad you did.
Gail Adams is a retired Ohio County Schools teacher who lives in Wheeling, WV. She was the 2015 West Virginia Teacher of the Year. These days, she can be found teaching water fitness classes at the Howard Long Wellness Center and pursuing volunteer opportunities.
